Fashionable Ghosts

Here it comes again, the dreaded seventh month. Burn, money, burn. Eat, spirits, eat. Run, humans, run. Superstitions aplenty, believe them or not, it's better just to be safe than sorry. The Ghost Festival or Hungry Ghost Festival apparently has a Ghost Day, the 15th of the month, which by the way, is today. Ghost Day is when those iron gates of hell are yanked open by the bouncers of the netherworld (sounds very much like a club by putting it this way haha) and the hungry spirits are released to mingle with humans and have their fill where the living has left them food and various other offerings. They are entertained by the ge tai, where performers put up very loud, gaudy and flashy shows for these spirits. The first row is reserved for these special guests so don't expect to see anyone in the front row. If you do, bless your third eye.

The inspiration for this post stems from a very amusing text I received yesterday from a very Catholic and very concerned mom (thanks for the advice), instructing me to go home early because the gates of hell open at midnight.
To which I replied: Those ghosts would not disturb me if I don't disturb them.
Mom: By going home early, you are not disturbing them. Touché. Very classy.
As Catholics, or any other religion other than those that celebrate this festival, these superstitions and beliefs should not be followed. However, in the uniquely Singaporean manner, everyone subscribes to these pieces of advice anyway, from not stepping on joss paper, kicking over food offerings to the relatively ridiculous like not turning around if you hear someone calling your name from behind you in the dead of night. Honestly, that would likely be what I would call Imagination; poised and ready to make life ever more interesting to make up for the monotony of daily routines. Like I said, better to be safe than sorry so I might just make my way home earlier today.

Speaking of ghosts, and thanks to my friend Google, fashion and ghosts or spirits surprisingly do not mix as much as I expected them to. For all the mystery, allure and eerie-ness that the underworld brings to the table, fashion does not take to it too kindly. I assume it's because these things have no positive connotations whatsoever, and probably serve to frighten more than inspire, to scare more than to impress. Then again, I chanced upon this hologram of Kate Moss, presented by none other than the late visionary Alexander McQueen, way back in 2006. The ghostly apparition of a holographic Moss gently wrapped in what seems like metres of tulle and mounds of McQueen magic was mesmerising from start to finish. The fragility and beauty in the dreamy apparition that lasted for a few minutes was more than enough to make a lasting impression.

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Ghostly apparitions don't appear often but I did find some and they are gorgeous. Fashion chooses to beautify the eerie, as it beautifies all else, hence it loses its ghastly edge but takes on an ethereal quality, much like what Kate Moss the hologram embodied as opposed to say, Helena Bonham Carter in the Corpse Bride. Fashionable ghosts are definitely more Western than Asian. I'm stereotyping for the sake of simplicity because the spirits of the West are somehow less creepy than the pontianaks, demons and vampires of the East. (Add zombies on the West side of the equation and perhaps both sides are more or less on par now, but zombies are on a whole new level).  Something to go figure.

Katrin Thormann by Alexi Lubomirski, Vogue Germany, July 2010

For Vogue Italia 

Invitation a la dance by Solve Sundsbo

It's the stories about the inexplicable mysteries that endlessly intrigue. If fashion is about story telling then this could be an interesting one to explore. A cabbie, Uncle #1, once told me this story whilst driving through one of the creepiest roads in Singapore, Mount Pleasant road. His friend, Uncle #2 was driving along that same road way before they had proper street lighting. He picks up a girl and everything runs as usual, no funny business. However, when he checked the cash that he was paid, it was joss paper money. Creepy, if your mind is all ready to jump into Tales of the Unexpected but could have been a practical joke, paying the poor cabbie with ghost currency because the passenger was too broke to pay with living dollars and cents. As the saying goes, if your conscience is clear, nothing to fear. Now that is something I fully believe in.


♥,
Fir

Couture - Haute & Atas

The hype for WFW 2011 has certainly died down but the impact that some of the designers have left sure has not. I think it was absolute brilliance for the Haute Couture Week to be tied in with Voilah, the French Festival. Not only did us Singaporeans get to savour the beauty and genius of French grand couturiers, we also managed to catch a glimpse inside the fashion industry through the fashion films presented by the Alliance Francaise Singapore at their in-house theatre and at Sinema. Together, they provided an overview of the French luxury fashion industry that prior to this, I would not have been able to comprehend and hence appreciate. 

Going back to day 4 of WFW, I remember Alexis Mabille's show as one of my favourites. Not only was his show breathtaking, he had a vision for haute couture as an industry and as a trade that got me thinking. For one, Mabille believes that haute couture is not a dying industry and hopes to present it as something that is fresh and modern such that it would appeal to more people. 

To get haute couture to the market is not easy. For most people, fashion is just what they wear everyday. A haute couture showcase then is probably a more 'atas' show than the usual, boring fashion shows. That does have some truth in it. After all, haute couture as the name suggests means high dressmaking. To most, it's probably more atas fashion. To others like Fal and I who study dressmaking and can give our two cents worth about tailoring, haute couture is dressmaking at its absolute finest. It is the artisan concept made tangible and real through the use of unrivalled construction techniques, manipulation of fabrics, textures and shapes and attention to the most minute details, some of which would have never even crossed my mind.

The artisan concept that is the foundation of haute couture is definitely not one for all to appreciate. There are just so many people out there who will not understand the rarity of such creativity and the intricacy of such construction. Neither will they understand the complex design process in which the designers can spend weeks and months poring over in order to produce a physical manifestation of the visual and architectural concepts (relating to the way the textiles and construction come together of course) conjured up in their heads. Sometimes it isn't just the pieces coming down the runway that get me excited, it's the audience. To hear the audible gasp among the audience, that short intake of breath that is hardly audible individually but so powerful as a collective, is proof that there are people who see what I am seeing and can appreciate what I am utterly impressed by. 

Not too long ago, I had a friend joke about the fashion channels on cable. While channel surfing, he (of course it's a he) happened to see stick-thin models walking down the runway. In 30 minutes, when he chanced across the channel again, it was the same stick thin girls strutting down the runway. No difference. I get where he's coming from of course because fashion shows on tv, not exactly entertainment. More like a channel filler. Haute couture is definitely something to be absorbed in the flesh. The drama takes place in tandem with the music and the setting in an atmosphere of anticipation and unspoken excitement. This was exactly what it was like before Alexis Mabille. Several people whom Fal and I had spoken to outside at the cocktail reception were psyched for his show, especially after the roundtable symposium that had gone on earlier that day with the rest of the designers. With a history of nine years once spent under the master of drama, John Galliano, at Dior, Alexis Mabille definitely brought the drama on with fierce animal accents and lots of volume.

Finale dress

Unfortunately, Fal and I were stupidly presumptuous. We assumed the show would start at least 15 minutes late because Dominique Sirop started exceptionally late. Hence, we left the venue to catwalk (more like balance on our skyscraper heels) to a coffee joint for a caffeine fix at the other end of MBS. When we returned, the show had STARTED. Panicking, flustered, frantic (feel free to insert all other synonyms), we rushed in and managed to catch half of the show. Oh yeah, we were close to killing ourselves (haha). 

Couture pieces demand and deserve so much more than a half-hearted sense of 'wow, that's nice' and only people who can understand the work and value behind couture will be able to give couture just what it needs. To each his own, I cannot expect everyone to afford couture the same amount of respect and admiration as I (or Fal) do. As for Alexis Mabille's vision, I do hope haute couture manages to live through an evolution that doesn't diminish the mystique and allure that surrounds haute couture as much as it defines this niche and artisan industry.

♥,
Fir

Christian Siriano for Payless

Its been about 2 months since Payless opened its first outlet in Singapore. The shoe store, or should I say, shoe source, carries a range of shoe brands that are both affordable and trendy. It brings to Singapore a unique shoe shopping experience - shoes are shelved according to different sizes, so it is a self-service way of shopping for shoes.

Payless also teams up with designers, and this time its celebrity designer, Christian Siriano. He's probably more famously known as the youngest winner of Project Runway, and for his 'bitchy' and hilarous quips on the show. The talented young designer injects his 'fieeerce' style in this collection, with booties and stilettos gilded with gold and silver buckles and embellishment. I'm currently into these faux animal skin pumps with a gold tip. Don't expect anything too high fashion though, as Siriano has clearly designed for the mass market in this collaboration with Payless. However, what you can look forward to is affordable prices starting from just $34.90 Singapore dollars.

































Payless also has another collaboration with Lela Rose, which has several pairs of preppy and pretty mary-jane heels and booties. The shoes look like something that Alexa Chung would wear, and once again, prices are kept low so they won't burn a hole in your pocket.





Visit Payless at Suntec Tower 2, Level 2.




♥,
Fal

The Epitome of Heartland Cool

I headed down to Serangoon Gardens on a wet, cold and gloomy Tuesday to visit Epitome, another concept store that carries indie fashion labels from all over the world as well as local designer labels. Sarah, the marketing executive, was eager to give us the low-down on the hot new items in the shop space. Cliche as it sounds, her smile and cheery demeanor really did brighten my day.

Tucked away in the quiet (but happening) heartland, Epitome is far from your run-of-the-mill neighbourhood shopping outlet. Recently renovated, the space is clean and quirky. It turns out that some of the furniture in the shop was designed by owner, Amanda and then custom made for the Epitome store, which gives it that extra touch of personality and sincerity. I'm loving how more and more people are not settling for quick-fix furniture from Ikea that no doubt looks good but has laziness written all over it.



As a heartland store, Sarah mentioned that it tends to get very quiet especially on weekday afternoons (like that very Tuesday afternoon that I was there) and things only liven up after 5 or 6 when people knock off and come down to the store to browse or shop. As expected, the regulars stay around the Serangoon area but Sarah says there are customers who drive down all the way to visit the store as well. One customer came down from the East just to pick up a pair of these Moschino-Kartell shoes, a collaboration by plastics manufacturer Kartell and designer Moschino.

Exclusivity is theme that governs Epitome as each piece of clothing comes in one or two pieces per size. Restocking is not an option as most of the brands they carry have to be flown in.

I was drawn to the Agyness navy shift dress with a detachable cape, no doubt a contemporary take on the 60's British mod by the newest Aussie label in store, Kings of Carnaby. I was impressed by the attention to detail; two brass-coloured studs on the neckline at the back of the dress which I believe is easily overlooked. The other items in the capsule collection were really eye-catching as well, for example the Contra playsuit. I say this collection is really worth checking out whether you're going for preppy, mod, vintage or elegant. If I were not in the penniless state that I am in now, I would definitely be investing in one of these pieces. Fashion from down under is big here as Epitome stocks other Aussie labels like Birds of a Feather, Milk and Honey and Lili. Unfortunately, Lili has stopped production and Amanda is on the look out for suitable replacements for the popular line.




Finnish IVANAhelsinki is one of the newer indie labels to hit the store. The S/S 2011 collection is boldly named 'Where The F*ck Is My Sailor' and designer, Paolo Ivana Suhonen, has got that nautical and retro twist right down to the tee. Each piece is carefully crafted by hand which explains why these items are a tad expensive.



Cool mushroom printed fabrics from Thai label, Senada Theory. I love the construction and detailing on the bodice of the blue-grey dress.

 


Local designers however, have the benefit of guaranteeing some hanging space on the racks in the store as their apparel can be restocked should they run out. Labels like Hansel, Possitilly and Faith by Posse are some local brands in store. Hansel has a flagship store at Orchard Gallery but Epitome stocks them anyway since they've been carrying their apparel all along so Amanda wants to keep it that way.

Recyclable materials for fashion? Hell yeah Epitome had some in store. Zilla, an Italian label by designer Sylvia Pichler, used sponge, air filter, cork and aluminium to manufacture accessories. The sponge has been processed such that it is waterproof (tried and tested). I don't think I would carry this bag though, as much as I love the environment, I also do love leather.

A handbag made of cork!

  

Mailing list notifications are what pulls customers down to the store as soon as there are new arrivals. So, if you haven't signed up already, you should be opening a new tab to sign up for their mailer right now. Some other cool finds:



Honestly, there are so many interesting things in store I can barely cover everything. The fact that I could tell a story for every niche item shows just how much thought has gone into the concept behind this shophouse boutique.

Epitome is located at 14c Kensington Park Road, Serangoon Gardens.

♥,
Fir

The hype: H&M Singapore

Today, H&M finally opened its doors in Singapore.

I braved the snaking queue, hot sun and afternoon showers to make it to its entrance at just 5 minutes short of an hour. H&M's PR efforts were commendable, as they gave away H&M magazines, mineral water and umbrellas (this was the smartest marketing tool in my opinion) to those who made an effort to queue.

And for the crowd's entertainment were models decked out in the season's hottest looks, literally, since some of the male models were in scarves, jackets and boots.

What awaited me at the end of all that queueing was 3 floors of fashion heaven. The clothes did not disappoint as it took me back to my shopping experiences at the H&M outlets around Europe. Most importantly, the clothes and accessories were all reasonably priced, with tees starting from $7.90 and necklaces and earrings starting from $3.90.






The crowd control was amazing as well since there was no mad frenzy and people grabbing away at clothes. It was all an orderly affair, a far cry from Uniqlo's opening in 2009. I apologize for not having a single photo of the interior since I was too focused on shopping.

Anyway, I managed to score some good buys, but more on that in another post. For now, I'm the happiest girl in Singapore because my all time favourite high street brand is finally here.

♥,
Fal

H&M is ♥

♥,
Fal

Liquid by max.tan

Fal and I went down to the the launch of Liquid by max.tan last evening. The new collection embodied an understated chic and showcased a cautious mix of pastels and lighter hues with the usual blacks, greys and whites that makes the A/W collection rather unique. We asked Max why Liquid, and not the already established label, max.tan. max.tan's A/W 2010-11 collection was the first Asian based label ever to showcase in Amsterdam's Modefabriek in 2010 and was featured by Vogue Paris Online, afterwhich it won second place at the China Fashion Creation Contest 2010.

The quirky designer explained that he wanted a more affordable range for his customers as he cannot expect all of them to blow $500 on a dress every month. The Liquid collection however, is far from a liquidated max.tan as the designer has ensured that each piece still embodies the same avant-garde and experimental ideas and construction that his main label has become synonymous with.

We asked Max about his inspiration behind the collection and he sited a Southeast Asian or Peranakan influence, as seen through the draping and close fit of several of the items in the Liquid line. A specific Peranakan element which Max has cleverly made contemporary in a soft, semi-sheer maxi dress is the sheerness of the kebaya as well as its snug fit. The designer also picked out a top (shown below) which is like a sarong because it can be tied around the neck, like a sarong (haha).



As a person, Fal and I found that the designer has an easy-going and personable demeanor that made him easy to talk to. Furthermore, he was sufficiently engaging, providing us with nuggets of amusement in his speech. For instance, he mentioned that he was "exploring his feminine side with pastels and colours". Max told us that his clothes have often been labelled as Japanese inspired. He doesn't like being labelled as Japanese and jovially shared that he doesn't understand why because his inspiration is overwhelmingly Southeast Asian. However, Max takes it as a compliment anyway as Japanese designers have been known to push boundaries and are distinctly avant-garde with regard to their constructed silhouettes.



Max adores draping and detailing; even in such a limited collection that is Liquid, we could see his passion for such detailing incorporated into each piece of apparel. Each piece is thought through right down to the last detail. Take the peach top featured below. We were shown the handwork done on the inside of the item such that the seams are wrapped up neatly and not untidily tucked in like other apparel out in the market. It therefore takes much more time to finish one top than usual; Max mentioned that the time taken to make one top with this sort of neat seaming is equivalent to the time taken to make ten tops without such attention to detail on the inside of a blouse.



Max also explained that he challenges himself with materials that are more difficult to handle (exclaimed with a laugh, "I don't know why!") but feels a great sense of satisfaction when he completes a piece. As part of the launch, customers and guests were invited to try on the pieces as they liked. The designer himself explained that one has to try the pieces to know how it feels and fits on the body. I therefore (successfully) persuaded a reluctant Fal to try on some of his items for me to snap a few photos of.



This is one of Max's favourites from his collection. A versatile black jersey piece that can be worn in many ways. The first shot shows Fal with the cowl neck worn as a hood, the second is the dress as it is. Max showed us that it can be worn as a tube dress as well (third photo; worn by model).



A draped skirt.



This shirt caught our eye because of its unique exterior seams and detailing on the sleeve.





At the launch.


Our favourites from the Liquid collection include a black jacket with sheer sleeves (picture below) and a mandarin collar and the versatile black dress that the designer himself also loves.

Liquid by max.tan can be found at Takashimaya, Level 3.


♥,
Fir