BOB | Never too late for the Best Of British fashion

A very late update on the Best Of British fashion showcase for A/W12 which Fal and I had the pleasure of attending quite a few weeks ago. Due to a host of pressing deadlines spot smack in the middle of April, I wasn't quite able to get down to this piece of work, regretfully. Thankfully, the images stayed fresh in my mind; indicative of the impression that these British designers have once again left on me.

Upon walking through those familiar wooden doors, the first rack already caught my eye with the plenitude of prints, symmetrical, animalistic, embellished or embroidered. As usual, the cosy arena was alive with the inspiration and magic brought to life by the foresight and creativity of these British designers. British fashion has often struck a chord within me, as much as the Italian couturiers, for their experimentalism and fearlessness.

Hermione de Paula, who worked with Christian Dior Couture, Alexander Mcqueen, John Galiano and Giles, is not new to the scene for she launched her ready to wear label in 2008. She takes floral prints and with a signature twist, turns them into unique pieces which resonate with playfulness and individuality, femininity and dynamism. Each collection is based on an unconventional female character, and A/W12 is no exception. This season's muse is Hermione's dark Lolita, Maguerite, a twisted English flower who is an unconventional collector of sorts whose dark passion lies in her menagerie. Hence the animalistic twist to the unique florals on each piece and the fascinating collection entitled Marguerite's Menagerie.

Some trivia for menagerie. Originating from 17th century France, the menagerie was what the aristocratic nobility owned to house their common and exotic animals and plants. It was considered the ultimate establishment of luxury and curiousity. One glance at Maguerite's Menagerie will evoke that same sense of decadence and inquisitiveness from the luxe fabrics and the unusual prints, with fish tails as petals and metal or ice as flowers. To add to the surrealism and decadence of the collection brought to life by monkeys, exotic birds, bejewelled bees, and glossy fish, Hermione used hues reminiscent of the Northern lights and precious stones. Vermillion, turquoise, magenta, burnished oranges, creamy peppermints and peach tones show themselves as perfect complements to the printed accents. 

Hermione de Paula's fashion credentials are outstanding, having acted as print consultant to Nicholas Kirkwood as well as collaborating with the same designer on the recent Keith Haring collection which launched the Nicolas Kirkwood flagship store in Mayfair, UK. She has also sown in other parts of Asia, Bangkok, South Korea and Tokyo as well as Saudi Arabia following a showcase at the SS/11 London Fashion Week installation at Liberty in London. We should definitely expect to see more of Hermione de Paula and her fascinating muses in the near future.

T'is the season of decandence for sure. St Erasmus is another designer label that is as decadent as it is artisanal. Hailing from South Africa, designer Pieter Louis Erasmus has culminated the influences from the textures of the African landscape with edgy London, stylish Paris and exotic India to create a cross cultural line of jewellery that reflects the multi-cultural influences that we embody in this multi-cultural globalised world. St Erasmus is unique for its 3D statement style that mixes traditional artisan techniques and skills with contemporary forms and materials.

A/W12 for Erasmus was inspired by Marie Antoinette, the 18th century French Queen who lived in a time of social change, who was independent and stylish yet restrained. Each handcrafted piece is a statement in itself, embellished and encrusted with Swarovski crystals and crochet in St Erasmus's trade mark Zari thread crochet. The collection transcends fads and whims of the trends and seasons and focuses instead on the wearable elegance and beauty of each statement piece for the independent and influential woman.

Fashion has always been about showcasing the woman with her mystique and beauty in clothes that are equally beautiful and intricately made. Amid the decadence and luxury, the woman, as recent fashion shows, also takes form as a modern and independent individual who is not only beautiful but with a mind of her own. Frivolous or not, fashion is a form of soft feminism that should be taken seriously.

♥,
Fir

From the BOB Trunk Show: KTZ

UK brand, KTZ is a collaboration between designers Koji Maruyama, Sasko Bezovski and Marjan Pejoski. KTZ, which is short for Kokon To Zai, loosely translates as 'from here to then', which is the brand's philosophy of a transgression or movement of fashion and style.

At first glance, KTZ's designs seem outlandish, even jarring to the senses with its loud prints and clashing elements. This is the design signature of the brand - strikingly graphic in prints and shape. While KTZ is definitely not for the faint hearted, its pieces do grow on you.






KTZ's Spring/Summer 2012 collection, draws inspiration from Africa, using tribal influences such as bright colours, beading and bold pieces. I like to think of it as the tribe leader of the Maasai meets bling.

Fir and I love KTZ's accessories. Bags in odd shapes, such as these clutches and shoes embellished with lots of studs all make great statement pieces in one's wardrobe.









If the name KTZ sounds familiar, its probably because the brand isn't new to Singapore. It was brought in during the Blueprint exhibition earlier this year and introduced as a special A/W 2011 range at Topshop not too long ago.

Hopefully, KTZ will be a permanent fixture on the shelves of shops in Singapore. While not everyone will take to the brand, I can foresee that there will be a cult following of the forward, young and rebellious just like its current list of Hollywood celebrities (Britney Spears, Lady Gaga and Nicky Minaj) that it counts as clients.




♥,
Fal

SOARing to great heights

Featured at the BOB showcase that Fal and I attended was Tim Soar. This graphic designer turned DJ turned music consultant to fashion houses (for runway music that is just right) turned fashion designer sure has one hell of a CV that has catapulted him to the upper echelons of the British fashion scene. Tim Soar shifted away from the DJ spotlight and placed himself into the fashion spotlight with menswear design, amid plenty of scepticism from his fashion industry insider friends. Nonetheless, the designer threw himself into it and has since earned himself a reputation year on year at London Fashion Week.

Rice informed us that the collection carried on BOB is pretty much his inaugural womenswear collection. I appreciated the clean lines and neat tailoring that is the essence of menswear that Tim Soar has managed to translate into skirts, dresses, blazers and so on with effortless ease and no pretense. The only issue I have with the collection is that it is a tad too simple. Not that there wasn't enough attention being paid to the detail, tailoring in itself is a detail-focused activity, I guess I was just expecting more than the blatant subtlety.

Nonetheless, fabrics that were used to create these gorgeous tailored pieces were in themselves a pleasant surprise. Touch that wool blazer and instead of a heavy and rough textile that feels like wool, you'll be taken aback, in a good way of course, by the soft, silky fabric that slides right off that finger. What appears to be a thick, woolly blazer is actually a silk blazer, soft to the touch, printed like wool, perfect for the warmer weather that is spring/summer.



Another item of interest was the pencil skirt, which looks like 6 of daddy's old silk ties cut up and pieced together to form a wonderfully tailored skirt, haphazardly striped because obviously, ties are too oddly shaped to be sewn in a straight line. I loved the sense of spontaneity and fun in this skirt and I'm actually toying with the idea of trying one out on my own with (yes) 6 of daddy's old silk ties (if he would let me).



Tim Soar admits the heavy influence of menswear on his ladies' collection probably because of the huge archive he has to draw on through his experience designing for men over the years. Nonetheless, a womenswear collection is the perfect outlet for some of his designs which are too feminine for the menswear collections. Taking things slowly, Soar did not want to try too many things simultaneously in his first collection, which explains the clean cuts and crisp lines.



This designer definitely does not take things that slow; he is still dedicated to music and now compiles playlists for hotels more than fashion houses under his label, Music Concrete. My personal subscription is to the belief in fueling and fulfilling the passion that one has for something and achieving a balance between money-work and passion-work. It's not easy as I have come to realise (especially today) and observe, but still, worth a shot. Life is short and if Tim Soar can do it, I think we all can afford to at least try.


♥,
Fir